A Traveling Barista's Four-Year Project to Make Great Coffee Across the Country

Final Post: The Journey's Over

In fact, it's kinda been over for a while.

I live in Philadelphia now. I lived there once, in a place called Fishtown, back in the hot summer of 2010.

My friends at Spruce Street Espresso are opening their second location a block from the first, which is actually a full-service contemporary Latin restaurant that embraces a really cool coffeebar inside.

Over the course of my three years of traveling across the country and working here and there and everywhere, I got a lot of chances to learn about how coffeebars (and foodservice establishments, in general) work best, and I will be putting my knowledge to the test.

Think of my travels as Coffee College, and think of this as a final thesis work, culminating in a single goal that I've now realized that I've always wanted: a coffeeshop of my own. And, folks, it's coming. The time is now, and Philadelphia is where it's at!

And while I've retired my suitcase, not a day goes by I don't fondly think of all the wonderful people I met while I was hauling my giant bag and bike all over the country.

In the mean time, you can follow me over at Tumblr if you really want to. Or not. Whatever. But I hope you do!

Thanks for reading these past three years. If you have any coffee questions you think I might could help with, or any questions generally, please let me know.


Americano to go! Mail Bag: Frequently Asked Questions about Life as a Traveler

Every now and then I get a piece of electronic mail containing questions about the broader points of living out of a suitcase all over the country. Now that I've been doing it for 2 and a half years, I feel like I've got it down to a science! Despite some occasional frustration (e.g., about not having furniture or a dog, or not being able to go on a God-honest date), it is a fulfilling and exciting way to stave off wanderlust and meet some of the amazing people speckled all over the surface of our Good Green Earth!

F------ A--------- writes:

"Your story closely resembles (in some ways) what I might like my life to look like in the next 2-3 years. I'm currently enrolled in my sophomore year of college, studying ---------------. However, I have decided to take next year (and possibly the year after that) to do what I've always wanted to do: get a motorcycle, get on said motorcycle, and explore the country. I have experience working as a barista and recently got another job in a coffeeshop here in I----------. So I should have a pretty hefty amount of experience by the time I actually decide to take off.

Do you think maybe I could pick your brain a little? Or maybe you could direct me to a part of your blog where you've already addressed my question."

What a terribly fantastic idea, F------! I wish you the best of luck in whatever adventuring is in store for you. I can honestly say that traveling around the country through working in coffeeshops is the best idea I've ever had, and the memorable experiences and sights in store for you will be abundant and fulfilling.

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Sneaking In One Last Goodbye to Chicago

As if you haven't heard it out of me enough: I love love love LOVE Chicago.

When I got wind that my old pals back at The Wormhole in Wicker Park were throwing a Harry Potter-themed Tournament of Champions-style latte art throwdown, I scrambled together a day off from my job here in Minneapolis and a change of clothes and made my way down to Chicago to participate.

Along with my pal Gordon from Minneapolis' Bull Run, the two of us made up "Team Minneapolis" and we trekked down to the Windy City with one mission: to beat the best and brightest in Chicago's booming coffee community. We were in it to win it.

As usual, though, it turns out that I was actually "in it to drink a lot," and missed the final pour-offs by half a point, placing fifth. Bummer! But Gordon ended up winning the whole thing, which you can read about here at the new (!) Twin Cities Coffee Guild web page. (Though, Gordon's write-up didn't mention how much a few amazing DJ's can really make a throwdown unforgettable - awesome job, Kristin and Eric - please DJ my 30th birthday party? Pleeeaaaasse?!)

Though I'm glad the title Tri-Wizard Cup went home to Minneapolis, I think perhaps the best pour of the night came from The Wormhole's own Otter:

She poured a pentagram into the head of a miniature R2D2, as seen below. Good job, Otter!

I slept on the roof that night, on a hammock. I awoke to Chicago's iconic beautiful skyline against the lake, and hated the realization that it would be quite some time before I woke up to this darling sight again:

Over the course of my travels to and fro various American destination cities, I run across other Southern folk, like myself, sprinkled here and there. One such person, like Sue here, regularly engages with me in the act of "fixin' breakfast" for our Midwestern friends. This is her making some biscuits (and, surprisingly, not frying something):

And here's Wormhole manager Sara, cubing some taters for what turned out to be delicious homefries! Great job, Sara!

And all this leads into the point I'm gonna try to make here in this blog post. We often talk about cities like they're individuals, and to some extent, they are: They have personalities and moods. There are things you like about them, and things you don't like about them. But, somewhere along the way, I forgot that what REALLY endears you to one particular city over another is the people there.

And though I said earlier that I love Chicago, it would be wise for me to remember that it's the people of Chicago I love, not the city. These most wonderful individuals have created for me an unforgettable home in the Midwest and have left the biggest, brightest blight in my heart. I hope I see them very soon, but as I prepare to make my exit from the Midwest after arriving almost a year ago, I know it will be some time before I see them again.

Chicagoans, you great and splendid bunch, you have changed me forever and made me a better person. Thank you! And, I hope to see you soon!


"Returning Home With Grace and Jubliance" or "When Life Hands You Lemons, Change Your Life"

Well, OK, it's not quite like that. But, let's dive into a little bit of exposition, shall we?

Ranch Dressing, unavailable in most parts non-Southern, are among the many thangs beckoning for my return home. Don't worry, sweet Ranch Dressing! I'll see you very soon!

Two years and five months ago, I decided that I'd put my life into a suitcase and become a traveling barista. Since then, I've lived in urban centers scattered all over the country and have found lots of interesting things to keep my attention. I can't even begin to list all the things I've learned about these various cities, or myself, or people generally, or bicycles, etc. Although, I can tell you that I've learned a tremendous amount about coffee, among these many other things.

I've also learned something about myself. And that something is this: sometimes, for the sake of your own sanity, you need a break. You need to be around the people that helped create and mold who you are and in an environment that you know like the back of your hand.

Don't get me wrong: it's super fun to always be staring into the unknown. You learn how to flex and bend and grow as a person and the experience adds character and strength. But sometimes it's important (and I think this is true for everyone) that you pop open a cheap beer and plop down into a lawn chair and, with gumption, stare knowingly into the known. Take a break. Relax.

If you follow me on Twitter or Facebook, you've possibly noticed that my tweets and status posts have become increasingly negative. In fact, super negative. Negative in a way that, in retrospection, makes me kind of upset and a little bit ashamed. But rest assured that it's only me venting - I'm not ever a jerk in person, no matter how much I want to be.

Nonetheless, I've always said that if you're not happy with your life line-up, you need to quit it and reformulate a new one. And that's what I've done - on September 8, I'm working my last day in coffee service and flying home to my hometown. I don't know when I'll hit the road again, but it won't be a moment before having spent all the time I need relaxing with my friends and family.

The City of Oaks! Look at 'er. She's just gorgeous. Not so different than the City of Lakes, really...

I've really really loved working at Angry Catfish and have met a ton of awesome people there. The shop's coffee program is on par with some of the finest shops I've seen across the country and I've learned so much from my shifts behind the bar there, and I'm very grateful for them taking me in and giving me the chance to work in one of the Twin Cities' most stellar coffee destinations.

My plan was originally to stay here in Minneapolis until December, but I just can't do that. I'm just way too homesick, and it's starting to get to me. I miss my big family back home. All of you. Not a day goes by that I don't think about you all.

And I'll see y'all soon. Very soon! 24 days and counting...


The Thrilling Heat of My Third Summer as a Traveling Barista

My Twin Cities employer is the Angry Catfish, a bike shop with a coffeeshop in the front! It's basically one of the most spectacular places I've worked.

The heat of July has impressed itself upon the Twin Cities and reminds me that I'm entering into the third summer I've encountered during my eventful trajectory as a barista traveling across the country. Only one more summer left! I wonder where I'll be then...

Regardless, it's been a month now since I came to the Twin Cities and started settling into Minneapolis. I've got a great home, a great job, and a lot to look forward to in these coming summer months.

Ah, and also, this blog post, or any other post on this blog, does not represent the opinions of any person or business other than me, got it? OK, good. I'm glad we could have this little chat.

A Place to Call Home

I don't mean any ambiguity when make the claim that the Twin Cities are in the running for my favorite city encountered so far. The amount of green space here is exhilarating and I don't think I could think of a more bike friendly city I've been in the past.

I've learned a thing or two about what "Minnesota Nice" really means, too.  But don't worry, Minnesota: your secret is safe with me! Down South, we simply say, "Bless Your Heart."

I have moved into a room in Powderhorn Park, which is just south of Lake Street in south Minneapolis. The new digs are a convenient 2 mile ride from work and close to the eastern end of the Midtown Greenway, a bicycle "highway" running east-west through Minneapolis that I'll talk about in more detail later. I live in a very central part of Minneapolis and can get to anywhere else in the city pretty quickly, which is just peachy.

A Way to Make Ends Meet

For a chuckle: The tongs for fetching pastries at a coffeeshop+bicycle shop hybrid are none other than the tongs from the Park Tool Co.'s grilling set. Because nothing grabs onto a gooey danish like a couple of spanners..

I have been working as a regular (full time!) barista at a bicycle shop in south Minneapolis by the name of Angry Catfish, which has a full-service coffeebar in the front of the store. The shop is an exclusive Intelligentsia account, which is fun for me since I haven't worked for one of those since I was at Chinatown Coffee Company in Washington DC, almost two years ago!

Coffee is brewed in airpots for the morning rush by a small Fetco Extractor, and single-origin "in season"* coffees are offered all day via a pourover bar (specifically, via Hario V60 01 and 02 drippers). However, if coffee via V60 isn't your thing, fear not: we've got a siphon, Chemex, and even French Press service available.

Each brewing method brings something different to the table with respect to the Three Ts of extraction: time, temperature, and turbulence. The interplay of these three variables, with respect to how they are influenced by the brewing mechanics of the device, is a huge part of brewing science - and a huge part of determining how the coffee in your cup is gonna taste. It's fun to be back at a place where tinkering around with coffee on the downtime is encouraged, and my coworkers are pretty savvy folks when it comes to tinkering around with extraction variables.

It's a great place to work, and I'm really lucky (and grateful!) to be there.

* (I use quotes around "in season" because coffee seasonality is a contentious concept. Read more about Intelligentsia's explanation.)

Twin Cities Coffee Family Love

Really, there's nothing quite like it. I have never felt so welcomed by a city right from the get-go as I have by all the wonderful folks in the Twin Cities coffee community. Thanks, everyone!


Blue Ox: Rocks My Socks

For the last three weeks leading up to yesterday, I have been staying with the family that's about to open Minneapolis' newest excellent coffee refuge: Blue Ox Coffee Company.

They are wonderful people and took such great care of me. And, wow, do they know their stuff about coffee. Their home coffee setup is as impressive as what you'd find at some really great coffeeshops all over the country. Climbing out of my bed in the morning and popping upstairs to find an expertly-brewed iced Chemex waiting on the kitchen counter is really something I'm going to miss.

But I won't miss it as much as them! Melanie and Sara and Anders, thank you so much! I hope I can repay all your kindnesses a thousand-thousand-fold. And oh boy, am I gonna try!

Excellent Extractions and Tasty Treats are headed your way this July!

Blue Ox is opening very soon (like: weeks, folks) at the intersection of 38th St and Chicago Av in South Minneapolis. The owners, as I said above, know their stuff and are ready to showcase coffees from some of my previous employers like Counter Culture Coffee (Durham, NC) and Anodyne Coffee Co (Milwaukee, WI), and others!

They've got a La Marzocco GB/5 ready to roll, as well as brew methods galore to showcase. And from what I've seen of the blueprints and the build-out so far, the joint is going to be pretty cool, and a welcomed addition to the area.

The owners are down to earth and approachable: if you don't want to "taste all the notes" and just want to grab delicious coffee and a muffin to go, they've got you covered, too.

For more info, you can read about how they were written up recently in Heavy Table, a Twin Cities-based food magazine. Or, you can follow them on Facebook or Twitter. Do it!


Reason #563 Why My MPLS Coffee Host Family Rules

The morning coffee routine turns into a kone1 vs. kone2 blind taste test. Same coffee, different perfs. Yessss!


Let's Get Some Frickin' Coffee, Don'tcha Know?!

A friend of mine and barista at South Philly's incomparable Ultimo Coffee recently wrote (OK, tweeted) asking about the whereabouts of good coffee shops in the Twin Cities area. And, furthermore, this guy has got pretty high standards for coffee. Luckily, so do the Twin Cities! Let's take a look at some of my favorite haunts, so far, in alphabetical order. This list is fairly Minneapolis-heavy, so sorry about that in advance.

Mural on the side of Angry Catfish.

Angry Catfish (MPLS)
I work here, and boy am I smitten! It's in South Minneapolis near the light rail on 42 St. It's one of the few Intelligentsia accounts in town and my coworkers are not-kiddingly-good at the craft. They also are a full-service bike shop, if you were wondering how they could be any fucking cooler?

Black Sheep (SP)
I basically only went once for a throwdown (latte art competition) in my first week of being in town. It's in the southwest suburbs of St. Paul. Despite having only been once (during non-open hours), after meeting some of the staff and seeing some of them in action at the throwdown, I can speak with a relative degree of confidence that these people know their shit. They roast in-house and have been around for longer than most of the other "A" shops in town, from what I gather.

Bull Run (MPLS)
Newly opened in the space formerly occupied by Cars R Coffins (a recently deceased bike shop + coffeeshop combo). Their coffee is roasted in town in a separate facility. The shop, located at Lyndale Av and 34 St, has got a great "Midtowny" location. I'm sure that area has an actual name, which I will certainly learn, in time!

Dogwood Coffee (MPLS)
Nestled in the front lobby area of Calhoun Square Mall is Dogwood Coffee, where several venerable coffee ninjas currently hang their hats. They roast in town at a separate facility, use milk from a local dairy farm, and have public cuppings every Thursday evening. It's in Uptown on Hennepin and 31st!

(When you're there, maybe you can pick up Keith's Coffee Map for great info on shops in and around the Twin Cities.)

Kopplin's (SP)
It's apparently the oldest specialty coffee game in town. Haven't been yet, as it's in St. Paul and I'm a busy guy. But, all the coffee folks in town speak very highly of it, and many of them cut their coffee teeth there in the past.

Quixotic Coffee (SP)
A stellar spinoff/side-project of Madcap Coffee (Grand Rapids, Michigan). I've only been a few times, but, once again, those few times were more than enough assurance for the claim that you're gonna be impressed by the baristas here.

Spyhouse (Hennepin or Nicollet Av locations, MPLS)
Two locations. They're both enormous, feature excellently-prepared coffee chiefly from Verve (but also other roasters?) and are really well-designed, if you're into that sort of thing.

By no means is this an exhaustive list of all the wonderful places to get well-prepared coffee in the Twin Cities. This is, however, an exhaustive list of the places I currently frequent or hope to frequent very soon.

If you would like more detailed information about more shops, then you should check out this guy's blog: it's a great day for coffee. (Looks like he's a barista, too, so you can trust him not to bust out any stupid honkey complaints about a coffeeshop's lack of power outlets, their fondness for playing "rap" or "hippity-hop music," or for not offering hazelnut syrup.)

As always, if you have anything to share (like corrections or comments), I hope you make full use of the comment box down below!


Traveling Barista Adventures, Chapter 9: Summer in the Twin Cities

The Empire Builder: the train I always wanted to ride, ever since I discovered its existence years and years ago. Last week, it took me to the Twin Cities from Milwaukee. In September, it will take me to my tenth home - Seattle.

Just in case you're a little behind on the blog and need a real quick catch-up sesh, here's the deal: My name is Seth Lester. For the last two years, two months, and ten days, I have been traveling the country, working in coffeeshops to pay my way. In this period of time, I have lived in eight American cities. Yes, that's right, eight! And I loved every one of them.

If you would like a fun (ooh, and interactive!) re-cap of the cities in which I have lived and worked, you should check out my interactive Work History page. Or just ask me to tell you about whichever city you would like! I especially like to talk about Philadelphia or Chicago: those were my favorites.

A week has passed since I put my few belongings on Amtrak's Empire Builder train and rode through vast, wide-open Wisconsin and across the Mississippi River into my new home: Minneapolis. And, folks, I think I'm in love. It's only been a week since I showed up in town, but I can already tell I'm gonna hate leaving.

I've got 13 more summertime weeks to explore my new Minnesotan home. By the end of summer, will I have conquered the Twin Cities, or will the Twin Cities have conquered me?


Let's Ride Bikes! (from Milwaukee to Chicago)

And why wouldn't you? Chicago is a vibrant and exciting place, and you should want to get there by any means necessary.

Milwaukee to Chicago Google Maps Bicycle route, as presented by iPhone screen capture. 98 miles between two thriving metropolises, and lots of adventure in between!

Last week, for the first time, I completed the full ride between the two cities, clocked over a hundred miles from door to door, and thought it might be useful to share a little bit about the route I took and my particular experiences doing it.

I made a few planning errors from the get-go that seriously altered the pleasantness of the trip, so let's address those first:

1. Judiciously select a day with weather appropriate for the ride. Of course, since you're in the Midwest, weather forecasts don't really mean anything. But, they're sort of accurate, so try your best!

On the day I did the ride, temperatures were between 95 and 100°F and there were strong headwinds coming from the south. Since there wasn't a cloud in the sky, about halfway into the ride, my biggest problem wasn't fatigue, but rather overexposure to the sun.

B. Use a rack, not your back! On longer rides like this, you're gonna want a rear rack and maybe some saddlebags/panniers if you're hauling stuff. I brought a messenger bag filled with water, carbohydrate-rich snacks, and a change of clothes, and a lock. On the day following the ride, my neck and back were the most sore spots on my body.

3c. Eat. Keep eating! Eat little bits all the time. You're going to burn thousands of calories doing all this riding and the normal three squares aren't going to cut it. Your body needs ready access to carbohydrates or else you'll bonk somewhere in remote northeast Illinois, and you'll never really recover.

5. And, you don't know this yet, but you're going to stop to refill your water reserves (at the very, very least) every 20 miles, so just deal with it and stay well-hydrated. Bring extra cash for water or be cool with sneaking up behind someone's house to steal water from their hose spigot (I did the former).

What follows is a play-by-play for Google's route proceeding through each county:

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