A Traveling Barista's Four-Year Project to Make Great Coffee Across the Country

Dude, Where's My Macchiato?

This blog post does nothing to address this gastronomic wonder, the Starbucks Caramel Macchiato, a beverage that has mystified and frustrated cafe cashiers for at least a decade..

I have found that many baristas favor the macchiato as their "not-at-work" beverage. The Macchiato differs wildly from cafe to cafe, but is commonly a presentation of espresso merely cut (and not drowned) with hot milk, allowing the full coffee flavor to come forward without being muddled by too much of milk's brightness-curbing and body-bolstering taste attributes.

Until coffee advisory bodies like the SCAA or SCAE (or maybe an independent standards council) can get it together and devise a rule of standards for beverages that are commonly associated with the coffee bar menu "canon," beverages served up by your local barista are going to hit the bar in a variety of different shapes, colors, and temperatures.
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Making Peace With the Press

In May, when I first arrived in Philadelphia, I was coming from New York, and specifically two very busy shops that did enormous volume. Spruce Street Espresso offered up a reprieve from the volume in the form of a more laid back and slower-paced atmosphere. Additionally, part of the reason I was excited to get behind the bar at Spruce Street Espresso was because of the way they make drip coffee.

"French Press As Drip"

During my first visit to Philadelphia in April, I thought at first when I saw the lack of a mechanized brewer behind the bar at Spruce Street Espresso that I had merely overlooked it. Then I spotted something that confirmed its absence: a small and worn-in fleet of Bodum Columbias on the drying rack over the sink.

It was also then confirmed: I was going to be working at a French Press As Drip (FPAD) shop. At first I couldn't have been less thrilled. Throughout my traveling and learning experiences, I had come to develop a less-than-amorous affection for this brewing method, which I felt was primitive and produced an inferior cup of coffee as compared to cups yielded from more modern brewing methods and apparatuses.

What's not to like about FPAD shops? Well, some folks really love it, but it wasn't really for me. Brewing by French press is time-consuming, inefficient, and yields cups with oodles of sediment floating within if you're not careful. After some time, fine particles of coffee that are capable of sneaking though the French press' mesh filter aggregate at the bottom of your thermal dispenser and get pushed into the next cup you serve, so you constantly have to agitate the dispenser in times of low business volume. And you can't hold coffee in a thermal dispenser for very long at all, as those fine particles will keep on brewing, resulting in an urn filled with over-extracted mud in not a very long time.

But, as always, this traveling barista project has been about learning through subjecting myself to different challenges. Working full-time in a shop that serves up gallons and gallons of coffee produced by this brewing method seemed like a way for me to really get to know the French press and all the quirks that come along with it.

Read about my current French press experience and philosophy below the brizz-eak:
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With Liberty and Justice, and Whiz

The menu at Geno's is ridiculously simple. Get it wit' whiz or wit'out.

Now back in Philadelphia from my weeklong vacation in Raleigh/Durham, I have just under two weeks to really dig my teeth in to the grit of Philladelphia before I ship out of here for good and find another fine American city to make trouble in.

Philadelphia is known for lots of things, mostly things that reverberate strongly with the chord of American Independence: freedom, liberty, an embattled colonial history, plumed hats, and the Declaration of Independence, to name a few. Secondly, of course, Philadelphia is known for its cheesesteaks, and it should be. There are plenty of places to find cheesesteaks throughout the vast American expanse, but there's of course only one city in which you can get a Philly cheesesteak.

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Brewdown Method Candidate Alpha

I've been thinking a good deal of how to best prepare a solid cup of coffee that will succeed at the Counter Culture Coffee Brewdown in Durham, NC on August 12. I have a long-standing love for the ABID Clever Dripper brewing method, which I first encountered in the fall of last year while I was working/learning at Chinatown Coffee Company in Washington, DC.

The Clever gives you a lot of reasons to favor it as a brewing method. To spare myself the task of writing an introduction on the Clever, I'll refer you to an earlier post from my blog written while I was in DC, and to a post on Gimme! Coffee's blog.

I especially favor the Clever dripper for commercial use. When using any other standard pourover technology (e.g., V60, Beehouse, etc.), the coffeemaker must work to maintain a specific bed-depth of coffee and water at all times, which requires extra time and attentiveness - things that might be scarce in a high-volume or under-staffed shop. With the Clever, and with a small initial investment of attentiveness to the setup (coffee mass, water mass, brew temp), the brewing operation takes a cue from the famous Ronco infomercial: "Just set it, and forget it!" (at least until the timer goes off), freeing the barista to do other shop tasks or help the next person in line.

Commonly, two things about the Clever Dripper are constantly referenced by industry professionals as drawbacks to this brewing method. Drawback #1 is that the device is made of plastic, which isn't widely regarded as the matter of choice to be pouring and steeping hot liquids in, due to some perceived toxicity of plastic that I am unfortunately not very informed about. This isn't so much of a drawback to me, as plastic is a substance with a very high specific heat, which means it will be drawing very little heat from whatever you have brewing in it.

Drawback #2, which poses much more of a threat to good-tasting coffee from the Clever, is the constant complaint of a papery taste. I think that this is not so much because there are not widely available good filters for the device, but merely because the paper filter is present for the entirety of the coffee's steeping time. Intuitively, if you're going to throw a big piece of paper into your brew for 2 to 3 minutes, there are going to be some notes of paper in the finished product.

In order to get at the direct immersion results of the Clever brewing method but doing so without involving 3 minutes of contact time with a paper filter, I devised the following "Brewdown method candidate #1" to do Clever-style brewing without the penalties of Drawbacks #1 and #2.

The obvious workaround these drawbacks is to do the brewing by steeping in an alternate vessel without the presence of paper, and to use a filter only at the end of the steeping time to capture fines from the finished brewed product. For this, I turned to an unlikely device: the French press. I've been working in a "French Press As Drip" shop here in Philly and I've warmed up to this brewing method a little more (but not much). It's also quite possible I was inspired by Mr. Hoffman's recent blog regarding iced coffee via French press, which is also widely done here in the city of brotherly love.

To do the removal of fines, I'll use the Hario V60 pourover cone, as it has a bottom opening capable of passing more volume per unit time than any other pourover device: I'm not looking to restrict flow through the filter any more than I have to!

Nonetheless, here goes!

We'll start with a pre-heated french press and 23 grams of coffee ground as you would for the Clever Dripper, just a bit finer than press grind.


Meanwhile, back at the ranch, we'll soak this filter and heat up this Hario V60


Helloooo Buono!


After a couple minutes of dwell time in the French press, we'll dump the brewing mixture (slowly as not to break the filter!!) into the v60.


We'll let this drip out, as if we're dropping our Clever onto the cup. Shouldn't take any more than a minute.


The filters I used, just in case you were curious.

Regrettably, I'm still waiting on access to a Refractometer/MoJo to fully evaluate the quantitative side of results... But subjectively with respect to taste, I'm fairly pleased: the resulting brew was balanced, bodied, and lacking in the papery taste!

I'm a novice though, so your feedback is more than encouraged! Thanks in advance!


Moving and Preparing for the Brewdown

Philadelphia TNT in CityPaper

This is somewhat old news, but the most recent Philadelphia TNT was such a smash hit that it attracted some attention from CityPaper's food blog, Meal Ticket. Check out the coverage here.

Not a Throwdown, but a Brewdown

Doesn't this look exciting? Man, I need to really get practicing!

My former employer and coffee friends back in Durham, NC are hosting a first competition of it's kind, which they are calling a "Brew Down." The event is much like a latte art throwdown, but instead of preparing lattes to be judged aesthetically, competitors will be preparing single portions of simple brewed coffee to be judged on taste and extraction quality.

I've already begun work on forming recipes, although I am still presently unsure of my weapon of choice. Right now, the Clever Dripper seems nice, but the filtration on that has been a constant issue - can't win a Brewdown with papery-tasting coffee! Chemex also seems like a favorite, but I clearly have a lot of thinking yet to do. Either way, I'll be giving it my best!

Always on the move

After two very fast-moving months here in Fishtown, the final day of my two-month sublet is here. I can't believe it's August already! Time has really zoomed by here in Philly, and for that reason I have extended my stay here for another month. I will settle into my new temporary room with my original (and awesome) Couchsurfing.org hosts after I return from Raleigh.

Leotah's Place is airy, spacious, and extremely comfortable. And the coffee is pretty good, too!

One of my most favorite parts about living in Fishtown is the coffee shop that opened up here just a block north of my temporary two month home. The shop is called Leotah's Place, and is quickly becoming a neighborhood favorite. The shop is airy, comfortable, and emerging as an exciting neighborhood and community hub for art and events. Getting to see a new neighborhood-oriented coffeeshop open up and start erecting its niche is certainly an exciting prospect, maybe like watching a kid grow up in fast-motion. Even more exciting is that the shop is just a stone's throw away.

Leotah's Place prepares coffee roasted by Cincinnati-based La Terza roasters. They have a very nice selection of pastries and inexpensive sandwich/salad fare to go along with a variety of coffees. I'll miss coming here in the mornings while I'm in Raleigh for a week, but luckily when I return to Philadelphia I will be living just a little ways down the street.


Wrapping up in Pittsburgh

I've been back in Philadelphia for a few days now, and forgotten that I needed to post some of my adventures on the final day of my Pittsburgh experience, during which I mainly focused my time in Lawrenceville, a district near downtown called "The Strip," and then Downtown Pittsburgh, where I picked up the Megabus back home to Philly.

Ahh, the old coffee with a goat motif, since legend has it that goats were the prime discoverers of the stuff. Having some knowledge of goats, I can assure you that goats will put just about anything in their mouth - including overroasted coffee.

I started my morning by hitting up a Pittsburgh staple with many locations all around town called Crazy Mocha, specifically the one in Bloomfield (with a super cool video store attached). Crazy Mocha has 16 locations scattered around Pittsburgh and is a fairly large local chain. Many of the locals told me that the quality has really taken a dive ever since the company began expanding into so many different locations, and I might have to agree. The coffee was drinkable, but not terribly good, lacking at the very least the joy of diner coffee, where the tremendous roast taste is diluted by the effects of underextraction. This stuff tasted strongly of its roast and very little of whatever coffee was actually behind it.

The Strip! All I'm saying is that you'd better come hungry!

My next destination in Pittsburgh was an area called "The Strip," an open-air market-style area situated several blocks east of downtown crammed with shops, bars, and restaurants of all different sorts. My first stop was at 21st Street Coffee and Tea, recommended to me by Philly friend and coffee colleague Jake L., who used to work here. Like Jake, these folks really know their stuff!

Luke, the owner, was really nice and welcoming, and prepared me some of Intelligentsia's Kenya Thiriku production roast... as an espresso! The shot was very tasty and a complete surprise, and re-motivated me to start chucking different coffees into that Mazzer hopper, as you never know until you try. Thanks, Luke!

Also on the strip, I had a late lunch at a Pittsburgh staple: the Primanti Bros. The place was packed and a little dingy, which I think is a good thing for a sandwich shop to be. In truth, the sandwich wasn't really all that good, and I think most Pittsburghers probably agree.

Serving the largest sandwiches in Pittsburgh for over 70 years!


As the legend goes, apparently steelworkers didn't have time to eat a sandwich AND two sides during their breaks, so the Primanti Bros just started putting the sides on the sandwich with everything else. Inventive? Yes. Gross? Probably.

Lastly, it was time to head back downtown to hop aboard my bus back home. That huge sandwich put me in something of a carbohydrate coma, so I sought out coffee at 21st Street Coffee's downtown location at 5th Av and Wood St before heading a few blocks to the bus stop to pack my bag.

This trip was great and I fully appreciate all the coffee people in Pittsburgh who were so welcoming and friendly to me during my visit! Pittsburgh is an awfully fun place and I hate that I can't spend more time there or even work and live there for a few months - 'till next time, Pittsburghers, thank yinz!


More Pittsburgh Coffee and the Cathedral of Learning

My visit to Espresso a Mano yesterday was really fun - I love this place!  The espresso is well crafted and the shop is comfortable and welcoming, as is the staff.  Lawrenceville, the neighborhood that is home to Espresso a Mano, in general isn't all that bad, either.

The entrance to Espresso a Mano is a versatile garage door opening. I love this look and love how it connects the inside of the shop with the outside.

Down a few blocks on Butler St. towards the strip (where I'm headed next) is Dozen, a superb bakery and brunch spot.  I had a delicious quiche and a milk chocolate cupcake with chai-infused icing.  I was sure to channel Mid-Atlantic Region Barista Guild Rep and Peregrine barista Julie H. while enjoying the cupcake, since her cupcake expertise is beyond comparison.

Additionally, Dozen also has Intelligentsia coffees and teas on the ready, alongside what looks like a 2-group Astoria Divina.

Cupcakes!

Next, my friend John and I headed to the University of Pittsburgh campus to explore inside the Cathedral of Learning, which, at 42 stories tall, is the tallest educational building in the Western Hemphere!  Inside the Cathedral are tons of student study areas, beautiful stone arches, and 37 nationality classrooms that are open to the public for touring!

Pitt students commonly refer to the Cathedral as the "Drunken Compass," because you can always see it from anywhere on the Pitt campus / Squirrel Hill / Oakland areas, no matter how disoriented or trashed you might be.

Ground floor commons area as seen from the 3rd floor in the Cathedral of Learning

More photos from the day reside on Flickr!


Exploring in the American City of Bridges

Pittsburgh rests in a valley carved by three rivers, the Alleghany (al-uh-GAY-nee), Monongahela (muh-non-guh-HAY-lah) and the Ohio.  With all that river to cross, the city has more bridges (446) than any other city in the United States!  This is convenient, since bridges are commonly made of steel.

T trains function both as subway cars and as streetcars, and I gotta say: the T is some of the cleanest public transit I've come across so far, folks!

Last night, I stayed with my old Third Place coworker John S. and his wife Jen in the Mt. Lebanon area, which is a few miles south of the city.  To get there, I had to take Pittsburgh's light rail / subway system, called "the T."

The T came about in 1984 and runs two main lines (red and blue) to the suburban sprawl that lies in the very hilly terrain south of the city proper.  The T is the 11th-largest pubic transit system in the country in terms of ridership.  In the downtown area between the rivers, riding the T is completely free... but you have to pay once you cross a river, upon exiting the system.

More Pittsburgh exploration after the jump!

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Sojourn to the Steel City

Look at all these people paying PRACTICALLY NOTHING to ride a bus to Pittsburgh!

Days off in Philadelphia are kind of rare, but they're especially rare when they come in groups of three.   Not wanting to give up an opportunity to do more caffeine-fueled exploration, I purchased some really cheap Megabus tickets to Pittsburgh - the roundtrip price from Philly to Pittsburgh set me back a whopping $9.

In fact, the taxi ride from Spruce Street Espresso to Philadelphia's 30th Street Station ($12) actually cost more than my bus fare from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh ($1.50), as did my rest-stop cheese pizza lunch ($6).  Currently, I'm on the bus somewhere between Harrisburg and Pittsburgh, trucking along through the fairly mountainous terrain of Western Pennsylvania.  Did I mention that all Megabus units have free Wi-Fi and outlets?  I freaking love this company.

While in Pittsburgh, I hope to check out as many food-, drink-, and bike-related things as conceptually possible.  Also, there are plenty of awesome coffee people to meet!  Thanks to the advice of now-Philly and former-Pittsburgh baristas Jake and Kendra, I have a fairly sizable checklist to conquer in the three days ahead.

So far as I can tell, Megabus will only take your biycle if it's in a bag like one of these. Once, however, I managed to get my bike on board with just a crisp $20 bill, which sloshed around like grease in the bus driver's palm. Yeah!

I've brought my bicycle along for the bus ride, too.  Getting your bike on to a Megabus can be a little tricky.  They're usually pretty serious about not putting bikes in the storage area, but if you have a bike bag you can dismantle your bike, pack it away, and stow it under the bus as you would a regular suitcase.  Be careful to thoroughly pad or splint your front fork if the bike is traveling without its wheels, or else its time spent in the treacherous Megabus baggage chamber will render it Mega-bent.

My first stop in Pittsburgh is the downtown location of 21st Street Coffee and Tea, which is a convenient half-mile ride from the Megabus drop-off point and place where I can get some Black Cat, which I haven't had for months since well-made Intelligentsia is impossible to find in Philly.

Here are an abundance of postcards, fueled by Counter Culture's new Michicha single-origin espresso.

Finally, I need to find a post office to mail off all these postcards from Philadelphia!  If you are interested in getting a postcard, man, let me know!  I love mailing these things.  Just shoot me an email with your mailing address and I'll happily shoot you a slice of the city I'm in.

Stay tuned for regular Pittsburgh updates!


Recap of PHL TNT July - the biggest, baddest TNT yet!

The turnout was incredible! 28 competitors were backed by over 100 spectators. Awesome job promoting the industry, folks!

My extended stays in Raleigh/Durham, DC, New York, and now Philadelphia have afforded me the opportunity to attend and compete in an awful lot of TNT (Thursday Night Throwdown) contests, and I'm happy to say that the most recent one here in Philadelphia was the biggest and most exciting one I've ever seen.

I'm awfully proud of Philadelphians and their fledgling coffee scene for putting together the biggest and most excited crowd of coffee people.  I hope to see their success continue forward as they begin to assemble the beginnings of a very tight-knit coffee family on par with what you might find in DC.

The event was hosted by Spruce Street Espresso (at the corner of 11th and Spruce in Center City).  There were 28 competitors, representing 14 shops from throughout the area, including Lovers and Madmen, Ultimo Coffee, OneShot Coffee, Chestnut Hill Coffee, Satellite Cafe, Bodhi Coffee, and more.  The pot at stake was $140, and the event was judged again by Aaron Ultimo of Ultimo Coffee.

As pictures of the event surface on Facebook and Flickr, I will diligently post them here.  As I was busy pulling shots for the competitors for half the night, most of my photos suck real bad, but here are some highlights:

Betty bartended for the event, passing out a variety of ice cold PBC beers.

Emily, Faith, and Kendra cooking up the competition brackets with appropriate seeding!

Look at that PRIZE MONEY!

Kendra from Spruce Street Espresso and Jonathon from Bodhi Coffee, the 2nd and 1st place winners, respectively.

The complete results for all 28 competitors.

No TNT is complete without an after-party. We all headed to Bob and Barbara's on 15th and South St for the Thursday Night Drag Show.

The rest of the photos I took are up on Flickr for folks to look at!  Lastly, home barista and competitor Tom B. assembled this video of the event, which is pretty great.  Enjoy:



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